Thursday, February 9, 2017

Clue 3D, Part 2

I've made some more progress on the Clue 3D Board. I cut all the walls, although I am switching my door method, which means I'll need to re-cut some pieces. Floors for each room have been decided upon although I haven't quite figured out how I will do the secret doors in corner rooms. The center will either be a rug or a staircase. 


Originally I planned to use laser cut doors but I didn't buy enough, and rather than order more I am making my own. The doors are basswood, with inset small rare earth magnets to keep them in place. A nail is embedded in the wall and floor which attracts the magnets. That will also allow them to be opened and closed. Windows are laser cut pieces, I can't recall where they came from...


Wednesday, February 1, 2017

Rogue Trader Space Orks

These old Rogue Trader era Space Orks were painted a few years ago, photographed by request. Not quite sure why I didn't base them with a spaceship/industrial look...


Monday, January 30, 2017

Impudent Mortal Industrial Terrain

I took some photos of various 40K figures along with the recently completed Impudent Mortal industrial set.








I didn't realize I had that many Rogue Trader Space Orks!

Friday, January 27, 2017

3D Clue Board

I wouldn't be me if I didn't have about ten projects going at once. Pretty much as soon as the spray sealer dried on the industrial terrain, I redirect some energy to the 3D Clue board I started last year. I bought a lot of chairs, furniture, and various decor over the last several months.

I drew out the board on 'Gatorfoam' a while back. This week I started walls. I'm trying to decide how to handle secret passages and such.

I was initially inspired to start a project of this nature by an awesome blog named Governor General of Sector Six, and decided to make it compatible with the Clue game mechanics. I'm hoping to use it for 40K settings as well as Pulp Alley or Strange Aeons.


Friday, January 20, 2017

Industrial Terrain

Last night I finished painting a large MDF 28mm scale industrial terrain set that I picked up in a 2014 Kickstarter, produced by Impudent Mortal.

I paid one of my students to build the structures and then they sat gathering dust for a year before I committed to painting them. I ended up not building some pipe racks and barricades included in the KS.

Anyway, just a wide shot for now- when I get time I'll take some pictures with figures and set a mood.



I just wish I had this twenty years ago when I was playing Necromunda!

Wednesday, January 18, 2017

Saxon Shield Tutorial

Hello,

This is a short article I published on another forum a couple years ago. A Facebook acquaintance asked me about shield painting, and the old article no longer linked images, so I decided to post it here.

1. This tutorial starts with a mostly finished Wargames Factory Saxon Thegn warrior- I typically save the shield for last. My priming technique is to spray dark from below, lighter from above. I use white, gray, black, and/or red-brown 'Dupli-Color' Automotive primer for generic painting, picking colors based on the overall color of the finished model. At this point there is a thin black lining of the rim, the rim was painted gunmetal, followed by a thin black wash again to reinforce the rivets.



2. I apply the base tones, slightly darker than what I want in the end. If you want a weathered and beaten shield, it is okay (and maybe even a good idea) to leave the base coat a little patchy. In this case I used Games Workshop ‘Deneb Stone’ mixed with white (about 50/50) and Games Workshop ‘Knarlock Green’ with a touch of ‘Orkhide’. When laying out the design, be aware of the rivets- they serve as a useful guide for dividing the round surface equally.


3. I added a little more white to the ‘Deneb Stone’ and a little of the ‘Deneb Stone/white’ mix to the green. I think it looks good to leave a hint of line where the colors meet.



4. For tears in the leather cover, I paint on a medium to dark brown. I think this was a Ceramcoat “Burnt Umber’ but any darkish brown will do.



5. I paint a sliver of light brown over the dark brown cuts, trying not to cover them up completely. It is okay if you miss on a couple, or put the lines adjacent rather than overlapping.



6. With a lighter layer of the color used for the shield colors, paint a thin highlight next to a few of the rents.


7. Lastly I create a dirty or stained layer using brown paint thinned with water or a purpose made transparent wash. In this case I used a Secret Weapon wash, ‘Dark Sepia’. At this point I often add a little of the thin stain color to the lower legs and shoes.



Thanks for looking!